Brittany: I think the surf culture in Hawaii is set apart from the rest of the world for a couple of reasons. For one, Hawaiian culture is rooted deeply in respect. Especially towards elders and you see that manifest in lineups. Unlike any other place I’ve seen, pecking orders are enforced, giving priority to those who have spent the most time at a particular spot. In waves this heavy, when implemented correctly, I think that makes lineups safer and allows for more of a rotation.
Another thing that sets us apart is the power and degree of difficulty of the waves here — it takes a long time to master. The dedication it takes to excel in these waves creates very proud, competent water men and women. That’s why you find our coastlines teeming with so many amazing surfers. I haven’t been anywhere else in the world where the degree of talent is so high.